Cambrai

A small town in the northern Pas de Calais region Cambrai can trace its roots to the Gallo-Roman town of Cameracum. In the middle ages the town (sometimes written Cambray in English) was the seat of an archdiocese and thus controlled large swathes of the surrounding country, including most of modern Belgium.

Cambrai was under Spanish rule until King Louis XIV of France besieged and conquered the town in 1677. War has often scarred this town, now chiefly remembered for the horrendous battle of Cambrai in the First World War, when tanks were first used in battle en masse.

Happily Cambrai is also remembered as the idyllic rural setting for the beginning of Marcel Proust’s epic novel À la Recherché du Temps Perdu. The eating of a Madeleine bun dipped in lemon tea transports the narrator back to his childhood, playing among the green fields and lush pastures of Cambrai and its surrounding countryside.

Cambrai people pride themselves on being at least a little eccentric. Louis Bleriot (1872-1936) was born here. On July 25th 1909 he was the first man brave, or foolish, enough to fly a plane across the English Channel.

The townspeople live their lives confident in the knowledge that they’re constantly being looked after by Cambrai’s two friendly 'giants' Martin and Martine. These huge statues, nearly 6 metres tall, stand on top of the town hall and use their huge mallets to bang the town bell every hour. Legend has it that, if the town is attacked, the giants will bang not only the bell but the invaders' heads as well.

Attractions

Cambrai’s long history has left it with some fantastic monumental buildings in the old town centre. The Hotel de Ville and the Chapel of the Jesuits are both splendid public buildings of the Imperial style. However, the town’s showpieces are the twin churches of Cambrai Cathedral and the Eglisé de St Géry.

The original Cathedral was known as 'The Marvel of the Low Countries' but it was destroyed during the French Revolution. The new Cathedral is a masterpiece of Gothic architecture; a stunning 18th Century organ dominates its huge, airy central nave. The Eglise de St Géry is worth a visit for its exquisitely carved pulpit alone.

Cambrai Museum has a decent collection of artefacts and artworks ranging from Egyptian jewellery, to exhibits on medieval life in the town, to an interesting collection of modern French art. None of the pieces are spectacular on their own, nor is it much different from museums in other provincial towns. Even so, the sheer range of the small collection is certainly good entertainment for a wet afternoon.

In the summer months, the council lays on several street festivals and fireworks displays. The various quarters of the town also compete to see who can organise the best street fair, each having their own weekend during the summer on which they try to out-do each other with food, drink and entertainment. A great way to meet some locals.

There are plenty of relaxing walks in the town’s beautifully laid out gardens and squares. Further afield the countryside is excellent for rambling, cycling and hiking. Details of organised walks can be obtained from the Cambrai Tourist Office.

The town is surrounded by canals and tributaries of the nearby Escaut River. There are regular boat and barge trips on these waterways. Some of the cruise boats are quite large and feature restaurants onboard. Dinner at twilight drifting down the river is exceptionally romantic!

Just outside the town, the Fleury Leisure Park is open from May to September. It features a man-made lake and grassy picnic areas. There are on-site centres for water-sports and horse riding where the public can hire equipment and instructors. The park also boasts restaurants and a small theatre specialising in magic and variety shows.

If you’re after a more unusual pastime the locals have been playing a game called le Billet for centuries. Two posts are planted in the ground 10cm apart. The players stand 10 metres away and throw a heavy wooden stick, aiming to get it between the poles. The stick weighs at least 5 kilos, so launching it 10m is no easy task!

Shopping

Cambrai is a small town so it is somewhat lacking in shops selling anything but the necessities of life. Lille is the nearest large town at 65km away.

There are some tourist shops selling souvenirs and some locally made woodwork. On Sundays there is a farmers’ market selling local wines, cheeses and freshly caught seafood.

Nightlife and Eating Out

Cambrai does boast a range of nightclubs, mainly in the town centre, but nightlife is much more focussed on the numerous bars and restaurants. Specialities include chocolates, Tome - a hard cheese made from cows’ milk, and l’Andouillette - sausage roasted in garlic and mustard. This dish is so popular that there is even a local 'Brotherhood of the Sausage' who dress up in yellow robes and meet to sing songs and eat their favourite dish.

As well as a fine selection of local wines Cambrai specialises in brewing. The town brewery produces a range of both light and dark beers. It is open to visitors Tuesday to Saturday when they can see the brewing in progress, visit the Beer Museum and taste a free sample.

Tourist Information

The office is open mornings and afternoons Monday-Saturday and afternoons only on Sundays.Municipal Tourist Office48, Rue de Noyon59400CambraiTel: 03 27 78 36 15Fax: 03 27 74 82 82office.tourisme.cambrai@wanadoo.frwww.cambraiofficedetourisme

Airport

Cambrai is 65km from Lille, 120km from Brussels and 170km (less than a two hour drive) from Paris. All of these cities have major airports which fly to destinations across Europe and the wider world.